The "No-Gatekeeping" Guide to Print Sizes, Ratios, & Framing
- Mar 24
- 3 min read
Let’s be real: buying a piece of art you love is an emotional win, but trying to frame or mail it can feel like a math test you didn’t study for. I’ve spent way too much time in the studio measuring "rabbets" (the little lip inside the frame) and math-ing out crop factors.
If you want your walls (and your desks) to look curated and not chaotic, here is the straightforward breakdown of paper, ratios, and scale.
1. The Math: Understanding Aspect Ratios
The aspect ratio is the relationship between the width and height. Most cameras (digital and 35mm film) shoot in a 2:3 ratio. If you try to put a 2:3 image into an 8x10 frame (which is a 4:5 ratio), the printer has to "crop" or cut off the edges of the photo.
RATIO | COMMON PRINT SIZES | VIBE/USAGE |
2:3 |
| The "Full Frame" look. No parts of the photo get cut off. |
4:5 |
| The classic "American Standard." Very easy to find frames for. |
3:4 |
| A squatter, more "painterly" rectangle. Great for architectural shots. |
1:1 |
| The "Instagram" Square. Perfect for grids and modern nooks. |
ISO (A) |
| The International Standard. Taller/leaner than US sizes. |
2. The "A" Series:
Stationery & International Standards
If you’re into journaling, planners, or high-end stationery, you’ve seen A5 and A6. These are part of the ISO 216 standard. The "magic" of the A-series is that if you fold an A5 in half, you get an A6. It’s mathematically perfect, but it can be tricky for US framing.
A5 (5.8" x 8.3"): The "Goldilocks" of notebooks. It’s the standard size for most journals (like Leuchtturm or Moleskine). It’s slightly narrower and taller than a standard 5x7.
Framing Tip: It won’t fit perfectly in a 5x7 or 8x10 frame without a custom mat.
A6 (4.1" x 5.8"): The classic postcard size. It’s also the size of those "pocket" notebooks.
Mailing Tip: This fits perfectly into a C6 envelope.
3. The Framing Secret: Matting vs. Full-Bleed
You have two main ways to display your art:
Full-Bleed: The art goes edge-to-edge against the frame. This is very modern and minimalist. If you have an 11x14 print, you buy an 11x14 frame.
Matted: This is the "elevated gallery" look. A mat is that cardboard border that creates "breathing room" around the art.
The Pro Formula: If you want to use a mat, the opening of the mat should be about 1/4" to 1/2" smaller than your print so the art doesn't fall through.
Example: For an 8x10 print, you want a 11x14 frame with a mat that has a 7.5" x 9.5" opening.
4. Buying Tips
(Wait, Don't Buy That Frame Yet!)
Thrift Store Finds: Always measure the inside (where the glass sits), not the outside of the wood. If it’s a weird size, a local craft store can cut a "custom mat" for about $15 to make your standard print fit that cool vintage frame.
The Tape Test: Before you buy, use painter’s tape to mark the dimensions on your wall. Walk out of the room, come back in, and see if it actually has the "weight" you want for that spot.
The New Closing:
It’s About the Feeling, Not the Rules
At the end of the day, all these numbers are just tools to help you get the feeling right. There’s no "correct" way to decorate a home, but there is a way to make it feel intentional. Whether you’re tucking an A6 postcard into the corner of a mirror or finally committing to that massive 24x36 over the bed, the goal is the same: creating a space that actually looks like you.
I’ve spent a lot of time in the studio getting frustrated by these measurements, so I hope this helps you skip the "trial and error" phase and go straight to the "this looks incredible" phase. Don’t be afraid to break the rules sometimes, too – if you want to hang a tiny print on a huge wall because you love the negative space, do it.
If you’re ever staring at a blank wall and can’t decide if an 11x14 or a 16x20 is the move, honestly, just grab some painter's tape and map it out. It’s the only way to really know.
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